 |
|
Proper placement of the
bridge is extremely important in the playability, tone, and
structural integrity of your violin, viola, or cello.
While your instrument may have been well setup when it was first
sold to you, the ravages of time and use can easily nudge the
bridge out of place, and if you do not know what the right place
is for the bridge, this tutorial may help you. While each
instrument is different, this guide is quite accurate for most
instruments. Cellos can often be found with greater variance
than violins and violas, so if you are uncertain, contact your
local luthier or the company from which you purchased your
instrument for their advice. |
|
The bridge feet should
be lined up in a straight plane with the interior f-hole notches.
(fig. 1) The f-hole notches are the slight wedges cut out of
the f-hole on either side in the middle section. When you
need to move your bridge, be very careful so as not to allow it to
snap down and strike your instrument top - use both hands at all
times, holding the instrument between your legs or on a padded
clamp, and be firm yet very controlled about your actions and
movements. You will likely get the hang of it after a short
time, but if you feel uncomfortable at all, allow your teacher or
an experienced colleague to assist you. |
 |
| fig.
1 |
|
Soundpost
Also, note the
position of your soundpost relative to your bridge and f-hole
notches. (You can see your soundpost by looking in the
treble f-hole) The soundpost is often about 3.5-5mm (violins
and violas) up to about 15-20mm (cellos) away from the back side of the
bridge foot, but the exact position depends on the setup of your
instrument and the luthier who performed the fitting. (fig.
2) Simply check to see that your instrument's soundpost is not
vastly further from the bridge foot than these figures, and if it
is quite far from the bridge foot, take it to a qualified luthier
for proper setting - do not attempt to adjust the soundpost unless
you are absolute certain of your abilities.
(again,
note the straight plane from the inner f-hole notches through the
bridge foot) |
 |
| Bridge
Alignment Part II |
|
When moving your
bridge or changing strings, it is very common for the bridge
to lean forward (toward the fingerboard) and this is damaging
to the bridge if left too long as the hard maple can begin to
warp permanently. Check to be sure there is a perfect
right angle at the back side of the bridge to the instrument
table (top) and if not, move the bridge with both hands,
pressing firmly but carefully near the top of the bridge while
holding the instrument between your legs or in |
 |
|
|
a
padded clamp, and nudge it into the correct position. (fig. 3)
As with all bridge work, if you do not feel comfortable performing
the operation yourself, have a teacher or experienced colleague do
it for you. |
| This S.U.
tutorial courtesy of StringWorks, Inc. |
 |
| To
add StringWorks University and its educational content to your
webpage, use the following link (without the <>
symbols): <a href=http://www.stringworks.com/stringworks_university.htm>
and the image shown above if desired. |
|
|
|